| It's a privilege to own old things. I imagine the memorable meals eaten off the Limoges, the fast company my Edwardian jewelry must have kept, and the tales of the heart that might have poured out of my Victorian inkwell.
So I had to visit Mt. Dora, the quaint central Florida spot renowned as an antiques capital. Located just 25 miles northwest of Orlando, Mount Dora boasts 50 downtown shops and gift boutiques, plus several cafes and restaurants. They are all within walking distance, and there are no parking meters to disrupt the pace of the day.
If you define "antique" as anything with a story to tell, swallow a heavy dose of caveat emptor and marvel in Mount Dora's offerings. Remember, collectibles are in the eye of the beholder. To some, cracked and peeling furniture means "shabby chic." But if you are serious about antiques, you might find some of the going pretty lightweight. Mount Dora is a peaceful stopover, not the Park Avenue Armory.
Like the nearby theme parks, Mount Dora practically forces you to embrace your inner child. It won't take long for you to experience several "I had one of those!" moments as you comb through the stores. So have mercy on your mother for throwing out your complete Barbie doll wardrobe, even if it would have assured your early retirement.
"Every shop here should be called 'Memory Lane,'" says Judy Prout, owner of the Wild Rose Antique Mini-Mall (140 East Fourth Street). If you're still upset about what your mother threw out, you might be able to replace some of it here. Wild Rose spills over with stuff, and its nooks and passageways, variously rented by 10 different dealers, show off hundreds of salt and pepper shakers, dolls, pins, sheet music, great old fly-fishing paraphernalia and 1920's beaded handbags.
Mount Dora (pop. 9,000), homesteaded in 1874 and incorporated in 1910, remains true to its small-town roots. Only one chain store, Ace Hardware, claims a spot downtown, and the local bookstore, Dickens-Reed (140 Fifth Avenue) provides tabletop chess sets for patrons stopping for a cup of something in the small cafe area. If you prefer gifts and crafts, there are plenty of places where the potpourri hangs heavy in the air and tapes of hammer dulcimer slows your step to a shuffle. But I recommend spending more time in the antiques and small shops.
Oliver's Twist (404 North Donnelly Street) offers an abundance of good china, Murano and Staffordshire glass, and some real finds. Among the gems I had never before seen: an 1870 pickle castor, a fancy silver and cut-glass jar for your gherkins. The Corner Nook (426 North Donnelly Street) carries numerous old cameos and costume jewelry. Old baseball keepsakes, Civil War currency, political campaign pins and curiosities can be found at Den of Antiquities (443 Donnelly Street). "I deal in stuff that today's generation hasn't seen," says owner George Rackensperger. Caroline's Antiques (331 Donnelly Street) houses the wares of 25 dealers who offer up plenty of glass and china, costume jewelry, furniture and knickknacks. The Purple Pineapple (317 North Donnelly Street) exhibits the furnishings and accessories of 15 dealers. For family-values collectibles, you'll find shelves of at least 1,000 upscale teddy bears at Timeless Keepsakes (128B West 4th Avenue), among them momma and poppa bears in Victorian velvet and baby bears attired in lace nightgowns. Proprietor Karen Krill sews charming clothes for her stable of bears.
After a day of treasure hunting, relax at the Windsor Rose English Tea Room (144 West 4th Avenue), where pots of PG Tips tea, the kind real English people drink, are served with an assortment of authentic entrees and desserts. After tea and scones, take a tour around the room, decorated with House of Windsor memorabilia and assorted collectibles (many for sale). For still more trinkets, drive a few miles down New Highway 441 to Renninger's Antique Center. Some 200 dealers are in residence every weekend, and once a month, special shows feature 300 more outdoor vendors who set up over the 115-acre site. Special extravaganzas mass 1,400 dealers for an overwhelming display of everything.
To really scour the region takes a good two days. If you decide to stay over, there are several charming bed and breakfasts that maintain the antique spirit of Mount Dora. The hotel that put the town on the map is the Lakeside Inn (100 North Alexander Street), opened in 1883 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The 88-room inn backs up to Lake Dora, where blue herons forage for edibles in the calm waters. If Mount Dora is one stop in your central Florida itinerary, be sure and pack a portable meal from Gourmet-to-Go (321-1 Donnelly Street) before hitting the road.
While there aren't any secrets or rock-bottom bargains left in the antiques business -expect to pay a fair price for these treasures - the village of Mount Dora does offer a welcome respite to the outrages of city living.
By Leslie Sternlieb from Meridian Magazine
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